Stitching Down Your Applique
You will need the following items:

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Press your background fabric in half, unfold and press in half the other way to find the center of the piece of background fabric.Locate the center of the background fabric.Put your pattern face up on the lightbox.Align the center of the pattern with the center of the background fabric.Starting with the pieces "in the back" -- they should start with number "1" -- pin the applique pieces to the background fabric using small applique pins.Here are the first pieces pinned to the fabric.Decide if you will be using a stabilizer. You can use a specialty stabilizer or a sheet of plain computer paper (shown here) or no stabilizer at all. I choose not to use a stabilizer.Load monofilament (clear) thread onto your machine. You can also use monofilament in the bobbin if you prefer a completely invisible look -- and if your machine will stitch well this way. Always test first!Another option for bobbin thread is a thin thread such as Superior's Bottom Line.You can also use a matching thread because even though your tension will be adjusted, sometimes the bobbin thread pulls up.Here are the stitching results shown with a colored thread in the bobbin.To show the different stitching results, the darker red piece has been stitched with white Bottom Line thread in the bobbin and the lighter red piece has monofilament in the bobbin. You can decide what look you prefer.Use an open-toe applique foot to stitch. You will be able to more accurately determine where you want the stitches to go.A knee lift is a great thing to have when doing machine applique. You will be doing a lot of turning while "driving" around each applique piece.When using monofilament thread, you will need to lower your tension -- a lot. I usually put mine at "0". Test your machine to see what tension works for you.This is the stitch pattern I use. It takes two straight stitches and then takes a "bite" into the applique piece. My machine has the option of mirroring a stitch so I have to do that as well. You can also use a blind hem stitch.I set my stitch width and length very low -- both at 1.1 and make sure I have the "needle down" option engaged. This option helps tremendously.Using a small needle (small needle = smaller holes in the fabric), start stitching having the straight stitches run right along the edge of the applique piece.......and then have the "bite" stitch jump into the applique piece. Stitch slowly and pivot around corners and curves.Stitching viewCloser view of stitchingWhen all pieces of the group or "layer" are done being stitched, remove the stabilizer.You can use a pin to scratch a small tear into paper stabilizer so you will be able to easily remove any stabilizer from inside the applique shape.One piece was done with paper stabilizer and one without. You can decide what works best for you.From the back side, trim away the background fabric in order to expose the freezer paper for its removal. Leave about 1/4" seam allowance when trimming.Here is what the back side of the piece will look like.In order to loosen the glue, spray the entire piece with water.Allow the water to soak into the piece and give it a few seconds to work on dissolving the glue.Using hemostats will save you from getting sticky fingers when pulling out the freezer paper from behind the applique piece. You'll be amazed at how easily the freezer paper slides out!The freezer paper has been removed.Fold a bath towel and place your block on it face down. Press the area(s) you just completed -- lifting and placing the iron in an up and down motion -- don't iron it back and forth. One finished piece viewed from the back.The same piece viewed from the front.Here is the first "layer" completed.The second "layer" of pieces being prepared to applique using the same method.If you have a smaller applique piece like these leaves, take special care when trimming the back to remove the freezer paper. A small slit will be enough.You can clip through previous seams if they cross through your current piece. This is why you assemble your block in "layers."Here is the back view of the trimmed second layer.Spray with water and remove freezer paper again. Follow previous directions for pressing. The rest of the block will follow these same steps.The stems and berries in this design are very small. Instead of trying to pin them to the block, use a water soluble marker to mark where each piece will go.Be sure to extend your placement lines enough so they will be underneath any pieces that should overlap them.Trace small circles for berry placement.After stitching your bias stems on, you will need to remove the basting stitches you put in when you assembled them. Use a seam ripper to pick them out.Close up view of a stem and berry.Just keep on adding pieces in the same manner until you have them all stitched on. Put your completed block face down on your bath towel and give it a good press (Up & Down!). Congratulations on finishing your beautiful appliqued block!
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